Life in McMurdo

Mt Erebus

Well, I have been here for two days, so I am an expert now on life at McMurdo.  The base is built on an island connected to the main continent by the Ross Ice Shelf.  The island is volcanic in origin, and Mt Erebus still smokes from time to time.  Nothing green grows here naturally (only in the greenhouses), although we did find some sort of lichen-like stuff on some rocks.   The place is affectionately known as “McMuddo,” as you can tell why from this picture. Apparently the summer melting season is pretty messy since there are no paved roads. 

"McMuddo"

McMurdo is home to about 1000 people at any time in the summer months (October – February), while about 250 people winter over.  The summer people change frequently. Facilities include a library, 2 bars, coffee/wine bar, gym, exercise room, and a small store that also does video rental.  Entertainment options include bike and ski rental, instrument rental, local hikes (short), bi-weekly lectures by various science teams working out of McMurdo, 12 TV stations (from satellite), and drinking heavily.  Sunday is the locals’ day off, and there was a bike race to help the time pass.  Also, I saw several folks out skiing.  Even with all this, though, people get cabin fever.  Living quarters are dorms with roommates.  My room is for two people, but I hear that some rooms are for six. I do not think I would do well with five roommates. All rooms have shared bathrooms down the hall. 

Summer weather mostly is partly sunny and around 32F, but can be windy.  Last week there was a major windstorm that blew snow everywhere and shut down the base in what they call a “Condition 1” situation, kind of an Antarctic “Red Alert.”  I missed it, thank goodness.  During one of those you are not allowed to leave any building.  Hungry?  Tough.  This week has been snowy and cloudy.

Skua

Weddell seal

I have seen very little wildlife other than crazy humans.  There are several skua (Antarctic gulls), and today I saw a large Weddell seal.  I am told that I won’t see any penguins unless I stay until February.  Bummer.


Meals are provided in the only dining hall, narrowly scheduled, several choices, including vegetarian, and all you can eat.  Quality is medium (school lunches are much worse, Luby’s Cafeteria is better).  No fresh fruit or vegetables except after a plane arrives.  The food comes frozen sometime before the previous winter sets in and is not replenished until the icebreaker comes next time (usually in late December). 

Dining hall/cafeteria

A great deal of life surrounds the coming and going of the planes from Christchurch, which bring mail, fresh fruit or vegetables (sometimes), and most importantly, more alcohol.  I was told that McMurdo has the highest per capita consumption of alcohol anywhere, any demographic.  The store only sells alcohol on certain days, and has started limiting the amount an individual can buy on any day.  The planes are scheduled three times per week.  Due to cloudy weather, there has not been a plane for close to five days, and the natives are getting restless. 

Experiment status: I showed up this morning for a 2:30AM transport out to the airfield in the hopes of a morning launch, but it was cloudy and the winds did not cooperate.   I go out tomorrow morning at 7AM for an afternoon possibility.